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The How To Build a Shed Tutorial is an in-depth video and text based description on how a storage shed is put together. This guide covers the basic fundamentals and small details that will help you build the perfect shed for your storage needs. Read on and check out the worlds largest shed building resource.
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It is important to spend some time planning your storage project before purchasing materials to build it.
1- Check For Building Restrictions: Check with your city or county building department for accessory building requirements or building permits. Make sure to complete any requirements that affect your project before building. Things like maximum square footage and heights, minimum building setbacks from property lines and existing structures and wind anchoring for areas with high winds are the types of things that need to be considered before picking the shed plan to build.
2- Choose Your Shed: Pick out the shed design and size that best fits your Storage and Design needs.
3- Get cost estimates: Have at least 3 lumber yards give you pricing for the materials on your materials list. TIP: You can turn in several different shed materials lists into the lumber salesperson at the same time. If you are hiring out the construction you will want to contact at least 3 contractors that have good references to bid the cost of construction.
4- Determine your shed building budget: Make sure that you have enough money to complete your shed. The larger the shed and the more elaborate the shed interior and exterior finishes are the more costly the shed will be. If the shed is built on sloping ground you may need to install concrete piers and beams to build the shed on which will add to the cost of construction.
5- Pick the spot to build your shed: Layout the shed location in your yard or garden. This can be as simple as taking your garden hose and using it to mark the outline of the shed floor on your grass or you can use 4 stakes hammered into the grass. Seeing the shed marked on the ground will give you a feel for its size and how it will affect the space you are building it in.
6- Learn about shed building: You can read this tutorial to learn how to build all the different parts of your shed before lifting any tools. Things to learn about include: foundation, floor and wall framing, rafter building, installing siding, building the roof, installing roofing and building the shed door.
7- Order The Building Materials: Pick the lumber yard you want to use and then order the materials to build the shed with. If you don't have a way to get the lumber home you can have the lumber yard deliver the materials.
There are specific videos on
-Installing Shed Windows
-Building A Shed Door
Organizing your storage space is important to getting the most out of your new shed and the shed walls are some of the most valuable real estate in your shed. Keeping things off the floor, except for very large items, is the key to a well organized shed. Take the time to install hooks and a shelf or two to allow you to keep hand tools and working supplies on the walls. The floor should be reserved for working space and large tools that cannot be lifted to the walls.
The amount of storage space you need is important to figure out so you do not end up building too small of a shed. A good way to figure out what you need is to move the items you plan on storing to one of the corners of your garage and seeing how much space they take up.
Also consider what your future needs are. Do you plan to purchase lawn furniture or other large items in the future that will be stored in the new shed?
If you are building your shed to act as a work studio or office space or workshop you will need to make sure that it is large enough for the work you want to do.
Every area has slightly different building requirements for accessory buildings and storage sheds. It is best to find out what they are before building so you are not forced to move or worse, tear down your new shed.
The most common requirements are that the shed needs to be 120 square feet or less, 15 feet tall or less and 3 feet from the property line and minimum of 12 feet from the primary dwelling to not need a building permit
This question is affected by your personal needs and any building regulations that may affect the construction of outbuildings.
Personal needs include where you want the shed in relation to the rest of your yard or garden. The new shed may affect the traffic flow in your yard, it may affect a play area or cast a shadow on your garden.
The shed door location will affect how the shed is accessed. Make sure that the door is located on the side of the shed that is in the path of traffic that you want to use to get to the shed.
Building codes affect the location because most areas have minimum setbacks and height restrictions.
The cost of your new backyard shed will vary depending on the size, style and cost of materials. Improper budgeting is one of the biggest reasons that construction projects run into trouble and even though a shed is a smaller project it is still important to know the costs before starting.
Size: The typical range of cost of materials is between $10.00 to $15.00 per square foot. To estimate the cost you would multiply the square footage by the cost, so a 12x16 shed is 196 square feet. If you say $12.00 per sf. then the math would be 196 s.f.x $12.00 = $2352.00
Style: The style of the shed affects cost because some sheds are simpler to build than others. Lower cost sheds have simple roof lines with no windows and a home built door. Adding windows, steeper roofs, factory built doors and more expensive siding typically adds to the cost of the shed.
Cost Of Materials: Buying lumber in large amounts is a lot like buying a home or used car: the price fluctuates based on time of year, how much the store purchased the lumber for and what price you can negotiate.
Get Three Or More Bids: It is always good to have multiple lumber suppliers give you a price on the lumber package for your storage shed. They buy lumber in large quantities so the price they sell it at is affected by what they paid for it and this is usually different for each supplier. So one of the suppliers you are having price the lumber will be cheaper than the others.
Service: One thing to consider is the level of service provide by each respective lumber supplier. If your favorite lumber store will match your lowest bid, and they almost always will, then that is your supplier.
Negotiating: When buying lumber in large quantities you can often negotiate the price a bit. At the very least you can
This tutorial shows you the steps to building a wood rail foundation, from cutting the rails and installing them on the ground to making them square and level.
Locating them on the ground is done by setting the rails in their approximate location and checking them for square.
To check that the rails are square in relation to each other you will first make sure that they are the proper distance apart from each other and then measure diagonally from corner to corner.
Your goal is get both of the diagonal measurements to be the same length. So move the rails parallel to each other until the measurements are the same.
The locations of the rails only need to be within a few inches of perfect as you will be moving them to prepare the ground underneath.
To check that the rails are sitting at the same height in relation to each other you will use a straight board and a level. Set the board so that one end is on one rail and the other end is on the other rail. Put the level on top of the board to check which rail needs to move up or down.
You will need to repeat this process several times as you adjust the rail bed levels until the rails are the same height as each other and the rails are level in their own beds.
On slightly sloping ground you may need to dig holes or build up the lower areas with gravel to allow the rails to sit level. This shed required that the higher rail be dug down to the height of the lower rail that was sitting on top of the ground.
The third step is to get the foundation rails parallel and square with each other. This is done exactly the same way you located the rails the first time by using a tape measure to check the locations of the rails.
It is usually easiest to get one of the rails sitting where you want it, and then adjust the second rail so it is parallel and the correct distance from the first rail.
You will need to repeat the measurement checks and adjust the rail locations until they are correct.
Although it is not shown in this tutorial because this shed will be moved to another location, each rail should have a few inches of gravel under it. This gives good drainage under the rails and makes it easier to level the rail beds.
Once the rails are square and level you are ready to set the floor joist on them.
A treated wood rail shed foundation is not always the best choice. There are several other foundation types to choose from depending on your needs and the terrain you are building on.
Post and Beam: The post and beam shed foundation is great for sloping lots or where you simply want the shed off the ground. It consists of concrete piers installed along the roof bearing walls. A beam is installed on the piers and then the floor joists are either set on top of the beams or hung between the beams as shown in this photo.
Concrete Slab: Pouring a concrete slab is the best way to get a very solid floor. The cost is typically very close to a framed floor, just a bit higher. A concrete slab should have a deeper footing around the perimeter to hold the weight of the walls and roof. The shed walls are held to the concrete using bolts spaced along the wall.
Treated Floor Joists On A Gravel Bed: This is one of the simplest ways to install a shed floor. A 4 inch deep gravel bed is installed and leveled and the treated floor joists are set on top of it. Make sure you have good drainage away from the foundation and this shed floor will last the lifetime of the shed. This system also keeps the shed floor level close to the height of the adjacent ground.
Treated Wood Rails On The Ground: Treated lumber is rated for direct ground contact. So this system works well when you want to build the shed floor using untreated lumber. The wood rails are set on the ground, or preferably on a shallow bed of gravel, and then the floor joists are set on the rails. Make sure that the wood rails are set under the walls that support the roof.
The first step to building the shed floor is to install layout marks on the rim joist boards. Prepare the boards for the layout marks by cutting the rim joist boards to the length shown on the plans and then standing the two rim joist boards on edge next to each other. Make sure that the crown edge is on the top sides and the ends of the boards are flush with each other.
Now you are ready to mark layout marks on the two boards. We will be marking the floor joist locations at 16 inches on center. Hook your tape measure on the ends of the two boards, pull the tape measure down and put a mark at 16 and three quarters inches. Then put an X on the side of the mark closest to the tape measure hook end to help you remember what side of the mark the floor joist will go on. Continue making marks every 16 and three quarters inches along the edges of the boards.
The reason you go three quarters of an inch past is because the floor joist boards that you will be installing on the marks are 1 ½ inches wide. If the center of the board is to be at 16 inches on center, then the edge will need to be three quarters of an inch past the 16 inch point. It is easier to line up the edge of the board with a mark than it is to line up the center of the board. Thus the marks are at 16 and three quarters, 32 and three quarters, 48 and three quarters and so on.
Wall sheeting materials like plywood and drywall come in multiples of 4 feet, and the 16 inch layout allows the edges of the sheets to meet on the center of a floor joist or wall stud.
Once all the layout marks are made you will transfer marks to the other board and make a line across both boards using a speed square. Make sure that both boards have an x to show the side of the mark that the joist will go on.
The second step in building the floor joist system is to set the rim joists and floor joists on the foundation rails.
Start by separating the rim joists and set them on the shed foundation rails. Make sure that the rim joist layout marks are still facing up and that the layout marks start on the same end of the shed.
Crown each of the floor joists and then set them down on the foundation rails and align them with the layout marks you made earlier on the rim joists.
The Third step is to nail the rim boards to each of the floor joists. For 2x6 and 2x8 floor joists you will use 3 nails at each connection. Make sure that each floor joist end is aligned with its respective layout mark before nailing.
The fourth step is to attach the rim boards to the foundation rails. Line the rim board outer edges up with the outer edges of the foundation rails and then nail the rim boards to the rails by toe-nailing at 16 inches on center.
It is also recommended to use an angled framing connector every 3 to 4 feet to strengthen the connection of the floor joist system to the foundation rails.
The fifth and final step is to make sure the floor framing is square so you can attach the floor sheeting.
This is done by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. Your goal is get both of the diagonal measurements to be the same length.
Measure the two diagonals and then move one of the rim joist boards, and the floor joists attached to it, parallel to the other side until the two diagonal measurements are the same.
Once the floor framing is square you are ready to install the floor sheeting. You can learn how to install the floor sheeting by Clicking on the How To Install Floor Sheeting Video link at the end of this tutorial.
Sheets of floor decking, wall sheeting, roof sheeting and drywall are typically made with a dimension of 4'x8'. These materials are supported by and attached to, floors, walls and roofs so the framing members need to be evenly spaced and more importantly the edges must share a common board. 16 and 24 inch dimensions are both multiples of 4 and 8 feet which ensures that the joists between sheets will fall on the center of a floor joist, wall stud or roof rafter.
The first step to installing the sheeting on the shed floor is to test fit the sheeting to make sure it will fit properly on the floor framing and to mark the edge of the first row of sheeting so you will know where to install the construction adhesive.
The second step is to put construction adhesive on the tops of the floor joists that the sheet will be installed on.
The third step is to set the floor sheeting on top of the glue and nail it on.
The fourth step is to continue installing sheets along the same row and then cut the last sheet on the row. If you feel comfortable that the sheets will fit properly, you do not need to set the sheet and remove it you can simply install the glue by eyeballing it from the first sheet.
The fifth step is used if your shed is wider than four feet which will mean that you will need to install additional rows of floor sheeting.
The sixth and final step is to cut off the tongue that is overhanging the rim joist. It should be cut off flush with the edge of the rim joist. Use a circular saw set to the depth of the floor sheeting to trim it off.
Once the floor sheeting is installed you are ready to mark the wall locations and built the roof rafters. You can learn how to build the roof rafters by clicking on the How To Build Shed Rafters Video link at the end of this video!
Making the shed floor framing "square" means that you will make the angles on the corners 90 degrees to the adjacent side. When all 4 corners are 90 degrees then the floor is considered "square" If the two rim boards are the same length and the floor joists are all equal lengths with each other then you should be able to make the diagonal dimensions, from corner to corner, match. Once the diagonals measure the same then your have a "squared" shed floor.
Make sure to order Full Face O.S.B. or plywood for your floor sheeting. Full Face is 4'x8' in size and the tongue is extra so when the sheets are connected at the tongue and groove they take up 4' of space on the floor.
NOT Full Face sheets are measured 4' to the end of the tongue so when they are connected together your floor ends up being about an inch shorter for each 4' piece you install.
The fourth step in the How To Build A Shed series
This tutorial teaches you the necessary steps to building roof rafters. From cutting the rafter parts out to building a jig and assembling the rafters!
A rafter is one side of the rafter assembly. The rafter assembly is made by using an O.S.B. gusset to attach two rafters together. The first rafter will be used as a template to aid in marking the remaining rafters. This ensures that they are as close to the same size as possible.
The first step in building the roof rafters is to cut one rafter board to length with the ends angled properly and then to mark and cut the birds mouth and seat on the rafter.
The second step will be to mark and cut out the birds mouth and horizontal seat. The vertical cut is called the birdsmouth and the horizontal cut is called the seat.
Refer to your plans to find the dimensions for the roof angle you are cutting. Measure from the eve end of the rafter to the start of the vertical birdsmouth and place a mark. Then measure further down the board to mark the end of the horizontal seat mark.
Use the square to place marks all the way across the board on the two points you just made.
To mark the birdsmouth angle place the pivot point of the square where the birdsmouth mark meets the edge of the board. Pivot the square until the 4 on the Common marks lines up with the edge of the board. Mark the board with this angle.
With the square still on the birdsmouth mark, measure up the line you just made and place a mark showing the depth of the birdsmouth according to your rafter plans.
To mark the seat cut you will flip the square over and place the pivot point where the seat mark meets the edge of the board. Mark a line from that point to the birdsmouth depth line.
Set your circular saw to its deepest cut setting and cut along the birdsmouth and seat lines. Make sure to cut on the waste side of the lines and cut only to where the lines intersect.
To fully remove the piece of wood you will need to flip the rafter over and continue the cuts to their intersection point.
The piece of wood should be easily removable at this point but there will still be a bit of wood in the corner that will need to be taken out.
Use a wood chisel and hammer to remove the remaining wood.
The third step is to use the first rafter as a template to make two more rafters. Place the first rafter on second and third boards and trace the birds mouth, seat and ridge angles onto the second board.
Cut the second and third rafters out and prepare them as you did the first rafter.
The fourth step is to build a temporary jig on the shed floor to aid in building the rafter assemblies.
Using one end of the shed floor that is the same width as the rafter assemblies, make a line on the exact center of the floor. Then measure up from the edge of the shed floor and mark the overall height of the rafter assembly. This measurement can be found on the rafter plans.
Test fit the rafters by setting the rafter seats on the edge of the shed floor and placing the peak of the rafter on the overall height mark on the center line. The rafter ridges should be fully touching each other along the cuts at the ridge and the seats should be flush with the edge of the shed floor along the entire cuts. Each rafter should be overhanging the edge of the shed floor by one half of an inch.
Now attach wood blocks on each side of the rafters to hold them in their locations. Screw the blocks of wood to the floor so they can be easily removed after building the rafter assemblies. Use 2 inch screws to attach the blocks to the floor.
Make sure that they are snug up against the rafter edges and that the rafter is in its exact position.
The fifth step is to make a rafter gusset and use it to attach the two rafters together.
Use your shed plans to find the dimensions of the gusset and then mark and cut it out from a piece of O.S.B. or plywood.
Make sure that the gusset does not extend above the top edges of the rafter and then nail the gusset to the rafters using 6d nails. Place a nail every three inches along the edges of the gusset.
Install the gussets on both sides of all the rafters except for the gable end rafters.
Test the rafter assembly by standing it up and lining it up with the edges of the shed floor.
Now build the remaining roof rafters using the original rafter template and the jig on the shed floor.
Gable Roof: This is the most common style of shed roof. It has two sloping planes.
Lean To Roof: The lean to shed roof design is another popular style of roof. It has a single sloping roof that goes from one side of the shed to the other.
Gambrel Roof: This is the classic "barn" style roof design. It has 4 sloping roof planes. It creates lots of storage space in the larger roof area.
This tutorial shows you the necessary steps to building the shed walls. From laying out the plates to framing door openings and assembling the walls.
The materials used in wall framing are the wall plates and wall studs. The plates are the horizontal boards that run along the tops and bottom of the wall. The plates hold the studs at 16 or 24 inches on center. The wall studs are the vertical boards that are installed between the top and bottom plates. Together they form the skeleton of the wall.
The first step is to mark the wall locations on the shed floor.
Start by sweeping the shed floor and then measuring in three and one half inches from the edges of the shed floor and placing a mark. Do this on each side of all four corners of the shed floor.
Verify that the distance between the two inner marks is 7 inches narrower than the overall width of the shed and then use a chalk line to mark the inner edge of the shed walls on all four sides of the shed floor.
The second step is to use the dimensions from the plans to mark and cut the wall plates to length. Only cut two plates for each wall at this time. You will cut the double top plate after framing and standing the walls.
Set the wall plates in their final locations on the floor and line them up with their respective wall marks on the floor and make sure that the ends of the boards are flush with each other. Also make sure that the corners meet the adjoining walls and are lined up with the wall marks.
The third step is to install layout marks on the wall plates to mark the wall stud and doorway locations. Start by rolling each set of wall plates on their edges and make sure that the crown edge is facing up. Flush up the ends of the boards and make sure that each set of boards are snug against each other.
Now you are ready to put the layout marks on the wall plates. Hook your tape measure on the ends of the two plates and pull the tape measure along the top edges. Put the first mark at 16 and three quarters inches. Then put an X on the side of the mark closest to the tape measure hook end to help you remember what side of the mark the wall stud will go on. Continue making marks every 16 inches along the edges of the boards. (When the tape measure is hooked on the ends of the boards you will put the mark at 3/4's of an inch past the multiples of 16 inches.)
Once all the layout marks are made you will transfer marks to the other board and make a line across both boards using a framing or speed square. Make sure that both boards have an X to show the side of the mark that the wall stud will go on.
The door opening will be marked on the wall plates that the doorway is on. Measure and mark the doorway trimmer and king stud locations on both plates. The King stud goes from the bottom plate to the top plate on both sides of the door header.
You should mark its location with a K instead of an X so that you remember what it is when you are nailing on wall studs. The trimmer stud goes on the inside of the door opening to hold up the door or window header. Mark the Trimmer locations with a T. If there are any window openings you will mark them in the same way.
The fourth step is to make sure the wall studs are the proper length and then assemble the wall plates and the wall studs by nailing them together.
Measure, mark and cut the wall studs to the length shown on the plans. If you are building the shed with pre cut 92 5/8" inch studs then you will not need to cut the wall studs.
You will build one wall at a time so keep the plates for the first wall you will build on the shed floor and move all the other wall plates off the shed floor. Make sure to keep the wall plates that go together with each other so they do not get mixed up.
Separate the top and bottom plates far enough apart so that the wall studs will fit in between them. Make sure to keep the crowned side with the layout marks facing up. Also keep the ends that the layout starts on on the same end.
Set the wall studs on the shed floor between the wall plates with one stud next to each layout mark. Crown each wall stud and set it close to its respective layout mark on the wall plates.
You are now ready to Nail the plates to the studs. Align the end of the wall stud with the layout marks you made on the wall plates and nail the wall plate to the wall stud. use 2 nails at each connection for 2x4 walls. Make sure to nail the wall studs on the X side of the layout marks.
The fifth step is to build the header for the doorway opening. The header for the doorway is made by sandwiching a piece of O.S.B. between two header boards and nailing them together. Window headers are built and installed exactly the same as door headers.
Start by cutting two header boards to the length shown on the plans. Then cut a piece of O.S.B. or plywood to sandwich between the two header boards. It should be a bit smaller than the header boards so it does not stick out around the edges.
Crown the two header boards and then set the piece of O.S.B. between them, align the edges of the header boards flush with each other and then nail them to each other using 12d nails.
The sixth step is to assemble the wall with the doorway in it. Mark the height of the door header from the shed floor on the king studs so your door will fit properly and then nail the king studs to the header boards.
Now nail the king studs and header assembly to both the top and bottom plates on their respective King Stud marks.
Now you can finish building the rest of the wall as you did the other walls.
After the wall is framed you will install the trimmer boards.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the header to the top of the bottom plate and cut a trimmer board for each side of the doorway.
Crown and install the trimmers by nailing the bottom plates to them and nailing them to the king studs. Make sure to nail from the inside of the doorway so if the nails protrude they will stick out on the inside of the wall and not into the doorway.
If there is open space between the door header and the top plate you can install the cripple studs above the header at this time.
The seventh step is to stand the shed walls. Start by clearing everything off the shed floor and sweeping it clean.
Stand one of the long walls first. Align the wall with the wall line marks and the edge of the shed floor.
Attach the wall to the floor by nailing the bottom plate of the wall to the floor with 2 12d nails every 16 inches. Try to install the nails so they go through the bottom plate and flooring into the floor joists below. You can see where the floor joists are by looking for the nails heads on the floor.
Stand and nail the remaining walls in the same way. As you stand each wall and nail it to the floor, flush up the corner boards of the two walls and nail the two walls together at the corner. Use one 12d nail at 12 inches on center vertically.
Make sure that the corner boards of the two walls are flush with each other
Stand the remaining walls and attach them to the floor and to each other.
The final step to building the walls is to install the double top plates. Adding a second top plate further locks the walls together and strengthens the top of the wall to better hold the roof.
Install the double top plate on the shorter framed walls first. Install nails on both sides of the wall to wall connection to tie the walls together. Continue nailing along the top plates by using 2 12d nails at 16 inches on center.
Finally install the double top plates on the longer walls between the first two top plates you installed.
Next time you are in a lumber store check out the 8 foot 2x4 boards. You will notice that there are 8' long boards and 92 & 5/8" boards. The 92 5/8" boards are pre-cut studs.
A typical house wall is framed with pre-cut 92 5/8" boards (or 104 5/8" or 116 5/8"). This makes the finished wall 8'-1 1/8" tall. This works great for homes because an 8' tall piece of drywall fits on the wall even when it is dropped down 1/2" because of the ceiling drywall. But on a shed it makes the outside 8' tall siding not fit too well and requires additional strips of siding above the 8' sheet.
To solve this, and make the wall easier to frame, we design many of our sheds with a 7'-7" wall height. This is the perfect height to allow a 6'-8" pre-hung door be installed under a 2x6 header and not have any cripples above the door. This makes the walls easier to frame and gives the siding on the outside a nice overhang below the floor to floor joist joint.
Always frame the window and door openings before attaching the wall plates to them, this means to build the header and attach the King studs to it.
Then set it between the wall plates where it goes on the wall and attach the header to the plate. Then set it on the ground and crown all the wall studs and nail the top plate to them and then go along and attach the bottom plate to all the studs.
The trimmers and cripples can be measured and installed after the bottom plate is on or after the wall is stood up.
Welcome to this siding installation tutorial. Here you will learn about the steps to installing sheet siding on the shed walls.
The first step to installing the siding is to determine how tall the sheets need to be. You will want the top of the sheets to start at one half an inch below the top of the wall. The bottom edges of the sheets should extend at least one and one half inches below the bottom plate of the wall framing.
On this shed we extended the siding to the bottom edge of the floor framing.
Mark the line where the bottom edge of the siding will be and install at least two 12d nails on the line under each sheet location to temporarily hold the sheets while you install them.
The half inch at the top keeps the siding out of the way of the rafter seat and birds mouth.
The bottom overlap keeps water from running down the shed wall and onto the shed floor.
The second step is to attach the first piece of siding. The first piece of siding on each of the walls is the most important because it makes the wall square and locks the wall in place.
Set the sheet on the temporary nails.
Start by making sure that the sheet is oriented so the edge overlaps of each succesive sheet will be on top of the previous sheet.
Move the siding board until the edge of the siding is flush with the corner of the shed and install one nail to attach the lower corner edge of the sheet to the corner wall framing board.
Push or pull the wall until the edge of the siding is flush with the corner and install a second nail to attach the upper edge of the sheet to the corner wall framing board.
The third nail will lock the wall in a square position as long as the edges are parallel to the wall studs behind each respective edge. Before installing the third nail you must move the wall top plates back and forth until the top edge of the siding is parallel to the top plates and the unattached vertical edge is parallel to the wall stud it half overlaps.
Use a tape measure to locate the boards behind the center of the sheet and mark their locations so you can install the nails without missing the boards.
After the siding is attached in three points you can install the remaining nails around the edges at six inches on center. You do not need to nail the edge that the second sheet will overlap because you will nail on top of the overlap when the second sheet is installed.
Install the nails on the center of the sheet at 12 inches on center.
The third step is to install the remaining sheets. The second sheet is installed similar to the first sheet but you will not need to square the wall because it will no longer move laterally.
Make sure that the second sheet properly overlaps the first sheet on the wall stud that both sheets share. Nail the second sheet on after checking that the other three edges are properly aligned.
Continue installing siding sheets around the shed. Make sure that you start and align each new wall corner like you did the first corner
The fourth step is to install siding around the door opening.
The home built door openings on our sheds are designed with a one inch reveal to allow the door to overlap the opening. If you are installing a pre-hung door you will install the siding to the edge of the door opening.
To install the siding to fit a home built door with three quarter inch overlaps measure away from the door opening one inch and place a mark around the opening. Double check that the distance between the marks on the left and right sides match the dimensions on the door plans.
Cut and install the siding around the door. Make sure the wall is square using the same three nail technique used to attach the first sheets on the other walls.
If your siding extends down to the bottom of the floor framing you may want to add siding below the door opening. First remove the door bottom plate using a hand saw or reciprocating saw. Then install siding one inch below the door opening.
The fifth step is to install siding on the gable ends of the shed above the first row of siding. This should be done AFTER the roof rafters are installed and the roof is sheeted so that you can match the roof slope on the top cut.
Before the siding can be installed you must first install a metal flashing in the joint between the upper siding and lower siding pieces. The metal flashing is called “Z” metal.
Measure and mark the flashing and then cut the flashing using tin snips.
Set the flashing on the top of the first row of siding and then attach it to the shed using roofing nails. Make sure to nail above the siding joint so water will not seep back into the shed through the nail holes.
There are two ways to cut the siding pieces.
The siding can be cut on the ground and then installed on the gable end or it can be installed on the shed and then cut along the roof slope.
To cut the siding on the ground you will need to measure the height of the piece and the horizontal length. Put these two dimensions on a piece of siding making sure that the grooves on the siding will line up with the lower siding pieces and then draw the diagonal between the two ends of the height and horizontal dimension lines.
Check the siding pieces for a good fit and then nail them to the shed.
To cut the siding to the roof slope on the shed you will use a straight edge to mark a cut line that matches the roof slope line.
Set a circular saw to the depth of the siding and then cut along the line.
If your shed has a narrow rake on the gable ends you will need to install filler pieces on the gable rafter tails to prepare the gable ends for fascia boards.
Sheet siding is the most common type of siding installed on storage sheds because it is the easiest to install and the least expensive to buy.
Most of the sidings come with either 4 inch or 8 inch spacing on the groove.
T1-11 Plywood Siding: The first type is called T1-11. It is a plywood material. It comes in 1/2" or 5/8" thickness. The 5/8" thickness is used when you need to comply with building codes that need a thicker material for shear panels on the corners.
O.S.B. Siding: The next siding is an O.S.B based material that looks the same as T1-11 but instead of plywood it is made from Oriented Strand Board.
Masonite Siding: Another siding type is constructed from saw dust and a glue. It is pressed into a form that makes it look like real wood. It comes pre primed from the factory. It is very easy to cut and work with but is not as strong as Plywood and O.S.B. based sidings.
Composite Siding: This siding is a cement based siding that also pressed into a mold to give it a realistic wood texture.
The shed roof is arguably the hardest part a shed to build. This tutorial is designed to walk you through the steps of building a shed roof for a simple gable roofed shed for spans up to 10'. The images used show a roof that has a 4 in 12 pitch but the pitch can be changed to whatever is on your shed plans. By following the step by step instructions you will learn how to:
Welcome to this shed roof building tutorial. Here you will learn about the steps to building a shed roof, including installing roof rafters and roof sheeting.
If you have not already built your roof rafters you can view the tutorial on how to build them in step 4 of this shed building series.
The first step to installing the roof rafters is to mark the rafter locations on the top plates. Start the layout on the end of the shed shown on the plans. Mark the rafter locations at 24 inches on center using the same layout technique used to layout the wall studs shown video five of this video series.
Layout the second wall making sure to start at the same end of the shed as you laid out the first wall.
The second step is to set the end rafters on the ends of the shed. Make sure to use the two rafters that have a gusset on only one side and that the side of the rafter with no gusset is facing outwards
Set a rafter on the top plates and align the gable face of the rafter with the top plate on the gable end of the shed. Make sure that the overhang of the rafter birdsmouth is the same on both ends of the rafter.
Attach the rafter to the top plates using 3 8d nails at each rafter seat to top plate connection.
Install the rafter at the opposite end of the shed in the same way.
The rafters may be temporarily supported from falling over by nailing a 2x4 board to the gable end or on some sheds the siding will extend up above the top plates. This shed shows both techniques.
The third step is very simple but it is important to help you align all the other rafters. Install a string line between the peaks of the two end rafters. Make the string tight enough so it does not sag but not so tight that it pulls the end rafters down.
You can tie a knot in the string and hook it in the gap between the rafter ends or simply put a nail where the two rafters meet at the peak and tie the string to it.
The fourth step is to set the remaining roof rafters between the two end rafters.
Set each rafter on its respective marks on the top plates and align its peak with the stringline. Then nail it to the top plates using 3 8d nails at each rafter seat to top plate connection.
The fifth step is to install the sub fascia. The Sub fascia is the 2x4 or 2x6 board that connects the bottom edge of the roof rafters.
Start by cutting the fascia boards to length and then marking the boards with layout marks at 24 inches on center. It works well to layout both fascia boards at the same time.
Align the marks on the fascia board with rafter tails, make sure that the end you started the layout on the fascia board is aligned with the same end you laid out the rafters on the shed from.
Make sure that the fascia board is flush with the top of the rafters and nail the fascia board to the rafter tails using 2 12d nails at each connection.
Install the second fascia board on the other side of the shed just like you did the first side.
The sixth step is to install the first sheeting piece starting from the same end you laid the trusses out from. 7/16 inch O.S.B. is most commonly used for roof sheeting. It comes in 4x8 sheets and is installed using 8d nails. Set the sheeting on the rafters with the lower edge flush with the fascia and the end flush with the face of the rafter. Make sure that the end that shares a rafter with the next sheet is splitting the top edge of the rafter.
Nail the sheeting to the fascia and end rafter. You can use a few nails at first to hold the sheet in place and then come back later and nail off the whole roof at one time.
The seventh step is to layout the rafter location on the top edge of the sheet and attach the sheeting to the rafters.
Hook the tape measure on the gable end of the shed that the sheeting is nailed to and mark the 24 inch on center layout across the top edge of the sheeting piece or hold the tape measure to show the layout dimension while you adjust the rafters.
Move each rafter to line it up with the layout marks and nail the sheeting to the rafter. This will lock the rafters in place so they remain on layout as you continue installing sheeting on the roof.
When two pieces of sheeting meet on a rafter each sheet will sit on half of the top edge of the rafter. Once you have adjusted the rafter to evenly hold each piece of sheeting you will nail the sheeting on.
The eighth step is to make the gable ends plumb and finish installing the first row of sheeting. Always install a complete row of sheeting before installing the next row.
The last piece of roof sheeting must be cut so that the gable end rafters stand up perfectly plumb. First check the gable end of the shed that you started layout from and make sure that it is plumb. You may need to brace it to hold it in place. Then make the rafter on the end that is not sheeted yet plumb.
Now measure the size of the sheeting needed to cover from the gable end of the shed to the sheeting joint on the first row. Cut the sheeting and install it.
The ninth step is to install the remaining rows of sheeting. The sheets in each row should be staggered from the previous row. They are typically installed with a 4 foot offset. This increases the strength of the roof system.
Start at the same end you laid out the rafters from and install a sheet that has been cut down to create the staggered layout pattern.
The roof sheeting needs to have a ⅛ inch gap between the edges to give it room for expansion. Use several 8d nails in the joint between the sheets to hold the gap open while you are nailing the sheet to the rafters.
Nail the sheet to the rafters and then remove the nails used to hold the gap between sheets open.
The tenth step is to install the nails on the edges and center of the roof sheets. If you have not already done so you will need to install nails every 6 inches along the edges and every 12 inches in the center of the sheets.
Many brands of O.S.B. have markings that are close to the 24 inch on center layout to help you locate the rafters below.
Once you have installed the sheeting for the first side you will repeat the process for the second side of the roof .
Gable Roof: The gable shed design comes in higher and lower slopes. The slope of the roof is one of the defining characteristics that gives your shed its "look".
Lean To Roof: The lean to is a simple single plane roof. It is simple to build and works well up against another structure like a fence or house.
Gambrel Roof: The gambrel gives your shed the classic barn look and provides lots of storage space up under the rafters. Larger gambrel designs have a loft area.
Not all roof pitches are created equal. The steeper the roof the more dangerous it is to work on. Everyones agility level is different so make sure you make your work enviroment safe reguardless of the instructions shown here.
Generally it is not safe to walk on a roof that is steeper than 6 in 12 pitch. Most of our sheds have a 4 in 12 or 2 in 12 pitch, both of which are fairly easy to walk on.
Our shed designs with a 10 in 12 pitch need special planning to make sure you have adequate safety measures in place.
When you feel unsafe you should install a 2x4 board horizontally across the shed roof on top of the building paper every 2 to 4 feet to act as a ledge to stand on and catch you if you start slipping.
Welcome to this shed trim installation tutorial. Here you will learn about the steps to installing exterior trim on your storage shed.
Trimming the shed is what gives it its character. Most sheds that are sided using sheet siding like 4x8 rough cut plywood or T1-11 will require a trim piece to be installed around all doors and windows, corners and roof soffit and facia. This trim helps seal the corner and roof connections as well as make the shed look good. This article teaches you how to trim a shed with basic 1x4 trim pieces but any size trim pieces may be used.
The fascia trim should be installed before the roofing so that the drip edge can overlap the fascia boards. The material used here is an O.S.B. material that has a wood pattern on the face.
The first step to installing trim on the shed is to install the fascia on the eves and gable ends of the shed roof. The eve fascia is first because the rake fascia on the gables will overlap it on the ends.
Start by measuring the eves and cutting the fascia to length. Make sure the top edge is flush with the top of the roof sheeting and the ends are flush with the siding and then nail the fascia trim boards onto the sub fascia.
Install the eve fascia on both eves of the shed roof using 8d galvanized nails.
The second step is to install the rake fascia. Use a trim board that is a bit longer than necessary to cover the peak to eve distance and mark the roof pitch angle using a framing or speed square on one end.
Start by marking a square line across the board. Keep the pivot point of the speed square on the end of the line and pivot it until the edge of the board lines up with the roof pitch mark on the Common scale.
Mark the angle on the board and then cut it.
If you have a mitre saw you can set the angle on the saw and cut the angle into the board without marking it first.
Hold the fascia board in its position and verify that the angle is correct. The ridge end of the trim board should be vertical when the top edge of the trim is flush with the shed roof.
With the fascia board lined up with the ridge position and flush with the roof deck, use a pencil to mark the cut off point on the long end of the board by tracing along the face of the eve fascia onto the back side of the rake fascia board. This will be your cut mark for the fascia.
Cut the rake fascia board and double check the length.
Nail the rake fascia on making sure that the nails go into the roof rafter behind the fascia.
Cut the fascia board for the other side of the roof gable and hold it in position to check the angle against the fascia board that is already installed. Adjust the angle if necessary to make a good fit.
Double check the length of the fascia board and cut the lower end to the angle of the eve fascia.
Nail the rake fascia on making sure that the nails go into the roof rafter behind the fascia.
Measure, cut and install the other side of the gable making sure the the joint where the two boards meet at the ridge is tight and the eve end is flush with the eve fascia.
Repeat the process and install the fascia on the opposite end of the shed in the same way.
The third step is to install the soffit on the eves of the shed roof. If your shed does not have a covered soffit then you can skip this step. The soffit goes on before the corner trim so that the corner trim can butt up against it.
Use a tape measure to measure the length and width of the soffit. The ends of the soffit board that are on the ends of the shed will butt up against the fascia board. The long edges should touch the shed wall and the back side of the fascia.
The ends along the shed wall will rest on half of a roof rafter so the next piece can also attach to the rafter.
All joints between soffit pieces must have a roof rafter behind them. So cut the soffit pieces so that they overlap the underside of the roof rafter by three quarters of an inch.
Cut the soffit pieces from trim boards or from scrap siding pieces.
Mark the rafter locations on the shed walls so you will know where to place the nails when the soffit covers the rafters and you can no longer see them.
Put the soffit boards into position and nail the soffit boards to the bottom of the roof rafters. Use one 8d nail at each rafter.
Install the soffit on the remaining open soffits around the shed.
The fourth step is to install the corner trim. When installing corner trim you will want the trim on the front of the shed to cover the edge of the corner trim piece on the side of the shed. This means that you will install the trim on the sides of the shed first and then the front.
Measure and cut a piece of trim so it will fit from the soffit down to the bottom edge of the siding.
Hold the piece of trim on the corner of the shed where it will be installed and then hold a scrap piece of trim on the other side of the corner to help you properly position the full size piece that will be nailed on.
Make sure that the edges are flush with each other and the corner gap is closed and then nail the trim onto the shed. Use 1 8d nail every 12 inches along the piece of trim and 2 inches from the ends.
To install the front piece of the corner trim you will first cut the roof angle onto a piece of trim that is about 2 to 4 inches longer than needed to cover the corner. Set the trim piece on the corner and check the angle for a good fit. Adjust the angle if necessary.
Hold the siding piece in place with the top edge butted up against the gable fascia or soffit if your shed has soffit on the gable ends.
Use a utility knife to mark the bottom cut location by pressing the knife blade into the wood at the bottom edge of the siding. Remove the trim piece and cut it on the mark.
Make sure to note where the wall stud is behind the trim before nailing. There is typically about one inch of space from the corner of the trim to where the wall stud is behind the siding. Hold the trim piece in position and nail it to the corner.
Install the other four corners in the same way.
The fifth step is to install trim around the door opening. The door trim is installed flush with the edge of the siding that is held one inch back from the door opening framing.
The header trim piece is installed first.
It should overlap the two side casing trims. Measure and cut the header trim according to your trim design.
Before nailing the header trim on you will first make sure that it has the proper spacing on each side of the door by holding a scrap piece of trim up on the sides of the door and adjusting the header trim until the two sides are equal.
The casing trims are installed after the header trim piece.
Measure from the bottom of the header trim to the bottom of the siding to find the lengths for the casing trims on the two sides of the door opening.
Measure, Cut and install the piece of trim for the the bottom of the door opening.
Not all exterior trims are created equal. There are several materials to choose from when purchasing trim. Each type of trim material has its own benefits
The width of the siding only makes a difference in the finished look of the shed. Common trim sizes are 3 1/2" x 1/2" or 5 1/2" by 1/2" or 3/4".
Wood: Regular wood is a very common trim. It is simply a board cut to the size of trim and used on doors, windows and corners.
O.S.B. Trim: A man made version of exterior trim is made from Oriented Strand Board. This type of trim exhibits the qualities of O.S.B. sheet materials.
Welcome to this asphalt shingle installation video. Here you will learn about the steps to installing asphalt shingles on your storage shed. This video describes asphalt shingle installation in 9 common steps. It is recommended to also refer to your manufacturers installation steps that are specific to the product you are using.
The first step to installing asphalt shingles is to install the drip edge on the eve edge of the roof.
Cut the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" metal drip edge using tin snips. Make a corner in each of the shed roof end pieces and extend the drip edge up the rake of the roof 2 inches.
The drip edge is set directly on top of the roof sheeting and fascia trim. It goes under the building paper to allow any moisture running down on top of the paper to be on top of the drip edge.
Nail the drip edge to the roof deck using one nail every 24 inches.
The second step is to install the 15 pound building paper. Building paper can be very slippery so great care must be taken when standing on it.
Roofing paper nails with plastic caps work best to hold the paper without ripping it. Make sure to only stand on places that are well nailed on and also try to always stand on a plastic nail head.
Line the building paper up with the drip edge and install one nail near the corner end. It can overhang the rake and be cut off squarely later.
Roll the paper out along the drip edge. Align it with the drip edge and install a second nail to hold it in place. Go back and install nails every 12 inches along the edges and 24 inches in the center.
The top edge does not need to be nailed because it will be nailed on with the next overlapping row.
Install each successive row making sure to overlap the previous row by 4 inches minimum.
The third step is to install the drip edge along the rakes of the roof.
The rake drip edge is installed on top of the building paper so that any moisture will be diverted above the paper.
Cut the building paper off flush with the fascia board before installing the drip edge.
Start at the lower end of the rake and overlap the 2 inch return from the eve drip edge that was installed earlier.
At the ridge you can either cut the drip edge to terminate at the ridge or on smaller sheds you can use one piece of drip edge to cover both sides of the roof rakes.
The fourth step is to make horizontal alignment marks on the building paper to help you keep the rows of asphalt shingles straight.
Start by measuring up from the drip edge along the roof rakes and placing a mark every 12 inches.
Use a chalk line to mark lines across the roof between the marks so you have a horizontal lines that are parallel to the eve.
The fifth step is to install a row of starter strip shingles. Starter strips are used to help the first row of shingles that sit over the drip edge to stick to the roof without having nail heads showing.
They can be purchased pre-made or you can make them from the regular shingles you purchased to install on the roof. Since most sheds only need a few starter pieces it is typically more economical to cut the starter strips from shingles.
To make a starter strip from regular shingles you will flip a shingle over and cut it lengthwise along the tar strip just above the tops of the factory made slits. Cut enough singles to run along both eves of the shed.
Cut 6 inches off the first starter strip so that the joints in the starter strip row are offset 6 inches from the row of shingles that will go directly on top of it.
The first starter strip installed will be the one that you cut 6 inches off of.
Install the starter strip upside down making sure that the edge with the tar strip is on top of the drip edge.
There should be a 3/8" overhang over both the eve and rake drip edges. Put a nail every 12 inches, just above the tar strip and 1 inch from the ends.
Continue installing starter strips along the eve drip edge. They should be 36 inches long and the ends are butted against each other.
The sixth step is to install the first six rows of shingles. Each row of shingles will be offset from the previous row by 6 inches. This prevents water from running down between shingle joints and into the shed.
Start at the same end of the eve that you started the starter strip on and install a full 36 inch long shingle over the starter strip. Maintain the same ⅜” overhang of the drip edge by lining the shingle up with the starter strip.
Each shingle gets 4 nails. One on each end and one above each of the slits. Nails are typically installed ⅝ of an inch from the top of the slits and not in the tar strip.
Continue installing the first row using full 36 inch shingles.
Cut the end of the first row before moving to the second row so you will have the reference point for the 3/8 inch overhang when you cut the next few rows of shingles that are installed.
Start the second row with a 6 inch offset from the first row and using full 36 inch long shingle.
Continue installing rows of shingles always starting with the 6 inch offset and letting the ends overhang the rake until you have 6 rows installed.
As you install each row you will visually line it up with the horizontal marks you made on the building paper to keep the rows straight.
Now return to the starting ends of the shingles and install filler pieces. Make sure that the pieces follow the same joint offset pattern as the singles previously installed on the roof.
These ends can also overhang the rake of the roof. This is a good place to use scrap ends from other parts of the roof.
On the first runs of roofing you will not have much scrap.
The seventh step is to cut the shingle ends off after the first 6 rows are installed.
On this project we got ahead of ourselves and forgot to cut the shingles after the first six rows.. But the process is the same.
You will use the straight edge of a spare shingle to line up your cut. Flip a shingle over and line the straight edge up with the 3/8" overhang of the lower shingle. On the top end you will hold the straight edge 3/8" off the drip edge.
Use your utility knife to cut along the straight edge of the shingle. It sometimes takes several passes with the knife to cut all the way through.
Now, clean the cut edges of the shingles by using a scrap piece of asphalt roofing to burnish the cut edge of the shingles that are installed on the roof.
The eighth step is to continue installing shingles in 6 row sets. The seventh row of shingles will start with a full shingle, just like the first row installed.
(The shingle ends in the image should have been cut before the seventh row was installed.)
Continue following the same 6 row pattern that you did the first time and install the shingles until you get to the roof ridge. The last row of shingles can overlap the ridge if you are not using a ridge vent. If they overlap they can be nailed to the opposite roof.
The ninth step is to install the ridge cap. The ridge cap pieces can be purchased as pre cut pieces or you can cut them from the shingles.
If you are cutting them you will flip several shingles over and cut them into thirds by cutting from the top of the slits to the edge of the shingle.
Start at the end of the shed that is most visible and fold the cut shingle over the ridge with half of the shingle running down each roof slope.
The finished gravel face of the shingle should be facing up and overhanging the drip edge like the regular shingles. The unfinished part should be facing toward the center of the shed.
Install one nail on each end of the shingle, just below the black tar line like you did the regular shingles.
All successive ridge cap pieces overlap the previous pieces similar to how you installed them on the main roof.
When you get to the end of the ridge you will cut the unfinished part of the shingle off and then nail it on directly through the finished face. Use a dap of roofing mastic on each of the nail heads to prevent leaking.
Once your shed roof gets below
The width of the siding only makes a difference in the finished look of the shed. Common trim sizes are 3 1/2" x 1/2" or 5 1/2" by 1/2" or 3/4".
Wood: Regular wood is a very common trim. It is simply a board cut to the size of trim and used on doors, windows and corners.
O.S.B. Trim: A man made version of exterior trim is made from Oriented Strand Board. This type of trim exhibits the qualities of O.S.B. sheet materials.
The simple steps to building a shed door that is functional and strong.
Building a shed door is an important part of building a shed. The door is the only moving part on the shed that you build so it needs to be sturdy enough to handle thousands of openings. It is simple to build a solid door using plywood or O.S.B. and 2x4's. This article teaches you how to build a shed door using a simple sandwich construction where the 2x4 frame is sandwiched between the exterior siding and an interior sheet of plywood or O.S.B.
This tutorial describes how to build and install a shed door in 6 easy steps. This door design uses a sandwich construction which makes the door stronger to help it hang straight and give you years of service.
Remember to always use exterior Polymer coated flathead screws for all attachments.
The first step to building a shed door is to cut out the back panel, internal wood rails and front panel.
Try to use two factory cut edges when cutting out the back panel and front panel. This will help ensure that the panels are as square as possible. The back panel is 1 inch smaller than the door opening. This gives a finished reveal around the door of 1/2 inch.
The second step is to attach the back panel to the door rails. Start by setting the rails on a flat surface following the layout pattern shown on the door plans.
Set the back panel on the rails and make the outer edges of the rails flush with the edge of the panel. Screw the panel to the rails using a 1 5/8 inch screw at 12 inches on center.
The third step is to attach the front panel to the rail and back panel assembly you just made.
Start by flipping the door over and setting the front panel on it.
Use a tape measure to measure and adjust the front panel until the overhang is one and a quarter inches on all sides. It works best to measure at the corners.
This step takes several adjustments to make sure the overhangs are all equal.
Attach the panel to the rails using 1 ⅝ inch screws. Install one screws at each rail end and in the center. The trim screws will increase the attachment strength when the trim is installed.
Remember that there is a 1 1/4 inch reveal so the screws will need to be at least an inch and a half from the panel edges. Be careful to not install them so far in from the edge that the trim boards will not cover them.
The fourth step is to attach the door trim pieces.
Before installing the trim you will need to scrape off the wood from the surface of the outer door panel that flared up when you installed the screws. This will help the trim to sit flat on the door.
Cut out the trim pieces and check that they will fit together on the front of the door. Attach the trim to the door using 2 and ½ inch screws at 12 inches on center
Make sure to hold the screws back from the edges 2 ½ inches so you are sure that they anchor into the door rails.
The fifth step is to hang the door on the shed.
Prepare the door opening by setting a ½ inch thick piece of lumber or O.S.B. on the door threshold. This will hold the door off the shed floor the proper distance while you install the door hinges.
Set the door in the door opening making sure that the inner door rail is resting on the ½ inch piece of lumber.
Now adjust the reveal around the door by moving the door side to side until the reveals are equal. There should be a ¼ inch reveal on all edges of the door.
Once the reveals are equal you can install the door hinges. Install 6 inch gate hinges using 3 inch exterior screws.
Remember that the door rails are 1 1/4 inches from the door edges so you must angle the screws that are not over the door rails so that they hit the door rails.
The bolt of the hinges should be centered on the gap between the door and the shed trim. The bolts should also be aligned vertically with the gap.
When the hinge bolts are not in line with the door they cause the door to bind when it is opened.
The top and bottom hinges should sit so that their edges just pass over the inside corner of the door trim. This helps insure that the screws will hit the inner door rail.
After the door hinges are installed you can open the door to test the fit. It may be tight to get it open because of the ½ inch board under the door rail. Once it falls out the door should swing easily.
The sixth step is to install the door latch. The installation varies depending on the latch you decide to install. You may want to wait to install the door latch until after the shed is painted.
For this basic latch we measured and marked the door 1 inch back from the door edge.
Hold the latch in its install the location and mark the screw locations using a pencil in the screw holes on the latch.
Attach the latch to the shed door using 2 ⅝ inch screws through each of the holes
Make sure to angle the screws if necessary so that they hit the interior door rail. Install the remaining screws.
Close the door and mark the latch strike location by holding it in place while extending the latch bolt or hasp to the locked position.
Mark the screw locations through the screw holes.
Screw the strike on using 2 ⅝ inch exterior screws. Make sure to angle the screws if necessary so that they hit the door opening framing.
Painting is the final step in building your shed. This article teaches you how to paint a shed to make it look good and last a long time.
Welcome to this shed painting tutorial. Here you will learn about the steps to painting your storage shed.
Today we will show you everything you need to know to paint your shed. You will learn how to caulk nail heads and joints, paint the trim, cut in the paint around the trim and paint the main body of your backyard shed.
The first step to painting the shed is to make sure that the surfaces are clean and any nail heads are set into the wood.
Look at each surface for any nail heads that are sticking up and use a hammer to nail them flush with the surface. If there is sawdust on the surface of the shed you should take a wet rag and wash the surfaces.
The second step is to prime the surfaces of the shed. Primer is designed to help the paint bind to the wood surface. It also seals the wood surface so that the paint will go on and dry evenly which allows the finished paint coat to cure properly.
You will also use less paint to paint a primed surface than when painting a surface that has not been primed..
The siding panels and trim we used came with a pre-primed finish so we will not need to install primer on this shed.
If you need to prime your shed you will install the primer on all the un primed surfaces
The third step is to apply caulking over nail heads and cracks. Nail heads can be left un-caulked but by applying a bit of caulk you can make them almost disappear.
Prepare the caulking tube by cutting off the end of the tip with a sharp knife at about a 45 degree angle. You want to cut very close to the end so that you have a ⅛ inch diameter opening.
Start by working on a few nail heads at a time. Apply a dap of caulk to as many nail heads you can without it drying before you finish. Then use a wet finger to push the caulk into the cracks and make the surface of the caulking level with the surface of the wood without creating a concave surface.
Now take a wet paint brush and brush the surface of the caulking so the caulking gets a brushed texture and the caulking on the wood surface blends in with the wood pattern.
Installing caulking on the corner joint between the trim and the shed walls will create a nice finish to your paint job.
Caulked corners are much easier to paint a straight line on when painting the trim a different color from the main body.
Place the tip of the caulking tube on the corner joint and apply caulking into the corner while moving the caulking tip along the corner joint. The trick to applying caulking is to apply the minimal amount of caulk needed to fill the joint.
Try to keep moving along the corner joint at the same rate of speed so the bead of caulk is even.
Now take a wet rag and use it to get your finger wet and run your finger along the corner joint to press the caulking into the joint and smooth the edges on the trim and siding. You may need to periodically clean your finger on the wet rag and refresh the wetness on your fingertip.
The fourth step is to paint the trim. When painting you should always start high and work down. This allows gravity that pulls paint drips down to help you instead of work against you.
Try to work on one wall of a time and paint all the trim on one wall before moving to the next. This reduces the times you need to move your equipment and materials.
Start at the roof eves and apply paint to the trim and soffit. Use long strokes when brushing and work from one end of the piece of trim to the other so that you are always installing new paint on top of the wet paint edge.
It is easier to paint the shed before the roof drip edge is installed.
After the fascia and soffit are painted you can move down to the corner trim. Start at the top and work your way down. The paint should fully cover the trim and slightly go onto the shed walls.
The door trim is painted in the same manner as the corner trim. You will need to tape off the hinges so that they do not get paint on them. Apply tape to the hinge surfaces and then use a utility knife to cut off any pieces of tape that touch the shed walls.
Make sure to remove the tape as soon as the paint is dry.
You will typically need to apply two coats of trim paint to make sure that you have even coverage.
Check the application instructions on your paint can to verify how soon after the first coat of paint is applied that you can apply the second coat. Remember that factors like air temperature, humidity and wind will change the speed at which the paint will dry.
The fifth step is to cut in the main color around the trim. This creates a clean line between the trim paint and the main body paint.
Install 1 inch painters tape on the trim side of the corner joint. Use long pieces of tape to make sure that you get a straight line. Stick one end of the tape to the trim with the edge in the corner joint and pull a few feet of tape out and align it with the joint and then press it into the joint.
Use a 2 inch angled paint brush to cut in around the trim. Once again, work from the top down to keep ahead of any drips. After getting a good line along the corner between the trim and the wall you will paint a 2 inch wide strip on the shed wall.
Cut in all the trim to shed wall connections before moving on to paint the shed walls.
The sixth step is to use a paint roller to paint the main body of the shed.
When using a roller you will work from one end of a shed wall to the other, load the roller with paint and then roll the paint on in full lines from the top of the wall to the bottom before moving down the wall.
Roll up and down several times to make sure that you get paint in all the surface variations. Sometimes it helps to lift the roller and spin it so that the same part of the roller is not always on the same part of the wall surface.
Load the roller with paint again and paint the next line in the same way. Overlap the first line by about 2 inches. This allows any new paint to easily mix with the paint that was previously applied and reduces the chance of roller lines showing up when the paint dries.
You always want to apply new paint onto the wet edge of the paint you previously applied.
Work your way around the shed and paint all the surfaces. You will typically need to apply two coats of paint to make sure that you have even coverage.
Remove the tape after the second coat of paint is applied.
If you are not able to get a straight line between the trim and the shed wall using the freehand method you may use tape to mask off the trim.
It is easier to paint the fascia before the roof drip edge is installed but we installed this roof before painting to dry the shed in before a rain storm. We lifted the drip edge up with a spackle or joint knife and then painted under it.
It is easier to paint the shed before the roof drip edge and door are installed but we wanted to get the roof on this shed before a rain storm so we will pry the drip edge up to paint under it and tape off the door hardware to paint around it..
"I'm declaring victory over the shed project. Thanks for the great plans and for answering my various e-mails along the way." John
You guys are awesome! Thank you very much!" Denise